“There is no love sincerer than the love of food.” – George Bernard Shaw

I was happily reminded of that recently, when I dined at Erst in Manchester. We stayed in Manchester for a few days this Summer, with a culinary scene that has changed spectacularly, compared to when I was last there 10 years ago. Ancoats, a concentration of old mill buildings and now very hip neighbourhood of shops, bars, galleries and restaurants, was where I found myself visiting several times on my trip. Twice for breakfast to local bakeries serving spectacularly flaky viennoiserie and sourdough bread, Companio Bakery (@companiobakery) and Pollen Bakery (@pollenbakery).

The third visit to Ancoats was for dinner at Erst (@erst_mcr). A beautiful and contemporary restaurant and wine bar, with arched floor lamps and glorious large windows with a wide view looking out onto the cobbled streets, dim lighting, superb, flawless service and an unassuming menu offering a collection of small plates designed for sharing.

We unapologetically overordered and had the deliciously plump and briny Gordal olives; an instagrammable Whole globe artichoke with smoked cod’s roe which sat on the table to be plucked at the whole night, a glorious plate of Coppa which I started to eat together with morsels from the other plates as it all worked so beautifully together, Grilled flatbread and vesuvio tomato, so much flavour and so moreish, it was practically inhaled.

The Cucumber, melon, oregano & pecorino, this was a standout dish, chunky wedges of crunchy cucumber and sweet melon showered with wafer thin shavings of salty pecorino – showing off the sheer gratification of seasonal produce where everything is just sweeter, juicier, more aromatic and with more depth of flavour.

We then moved on to the flavoursome and ever so delicate Stuffed courgette with pine nuts, mint and tomato; and the rich Rump tartare & tonnato.

For dessert, a wonderfully balanced Chocolate sorbet with olive oil and sea salt, and the silken Fig leaf panna cotta & apricots – which I can very easily say is the best panna cotta I have ever had, and I would return for that and that alone.

If you are in Manchester, do book a table. A truly spectacular and memorable eatery.  

https://www.erst-mcr.co.uk/