“The oldest form of theater is the dinner table” Michael J. Fox

And theatre it was. Dining at Row on 45 is an exceptionally composed evening of culinary mastery.

Situated at the Grosvenor House, your experience is spread across three acts, in three different richly appointed dining areas: The Champagne Room, Chef’s Kitchen and Chef’s Library, every room as spectacular as the next. If it’s not a view overlooking Palm Jumeirah which never seems to get old, you also get to sit a stone’s throw away from the chefs in action in Act 2. Then just as you think you couldn’t eat a morsel more, for the final courses in The Library, you are presented with a glorious petit four cabinet that certainly trumps all other petit four cabinets. 

But back to the start.

I have for many years now truly believed that if my husband and I were to ever enter The Amazing Race, we would win. Yet on this night, with the restaurant moniker providing more than an inkling as to its whereabouts, we still ended up getting off on the wrong floor, and popped out at City Social, Jason Atherton’s other restaurant 2 floors below our destination. We had a quick look around since we were there, which did look very festive and social as the name suggested. But that’s another review for another time.

We found our way again, with the host of City Social taking us up to Row on 45 to make sure we actually got there. After another very warm welcome, we were seated and handed personalised wax sealed menus listing the 16 Japanese-influenced courses for the evening (we being my husband cum food photographer for the night).

We were offered an aperitif to start the evening from an impressively stocked champagne trolley and collection in general. A sparkling rose peaked my interest as I’d never even heard of it until that night. NYETIMBER, with grapes grown in greensand and chalk soils in the south of England. Pleasantly surprised, a very balanced, refreshing and elegant start to the evening.

We were served 3 sensational courses in Act 1 to whet the appetite, a standout was the Bluefin Date Maguro, Japanese sustainably farmed Bluefin Tuna, nestled in a black savoury pastry case made from the bones of the fish.

We were then whisked away for Act 2 where we were offered a lovely quiet ‘romantic’ corner, or the bar in front of the action. We chose the bar naturally. Courses served by different chefs, all varying in their charm and storytelling.

Some of my favorites included laminated brioche with a roast chicken skin yeast butter (swoon), wild Suzuki fish in a dish reimagining Marco Pierre White’s Bouillabaisse. Noirmoutier potato braised in kombu stock, draped in light foam with chive oil and a dollop of caviar, and a mouthwatering Stilton tart for the cheese course (could have eaten half a dozen of them).

Your plate is taken away within milliseconds of finishing, and I never actually saw the sommelier top up my wine, but my glass was never empty.

The beauty of the experience is that as highly coordinated as it is, its not stuffy, there is no pretension. The music selection playing throughout the evening in all three rooms does not allow for it. With the likes of Creedance, Simply Red, Alanis Morissette and Four Non-Blondes – What’s Going On indeed!

The evening ended in The Chef’s Library with the aforementioned petit fours, negronis and a bouquet of flowers presented to me by Executive Chef, Daniel Birk himself. I was bitterly disappointed to find out this is was not in fact a gift from him personally, and doesn’t happen ever time you dine here, but a gift my dear husband had arranged prior as it was my birthday… a girl can dream hey…

Highlight: it is a truly enthralling experience, one that reminded me of the heady experience I had dining at Saison in San Fran a few years ago, if I was to compare.  

Lowlight: It is an assault not only on your senses but on your wallet too. It is on the pricier side, but absolutely worth it for a special occasion.

To book:

www.rowon45dubai.com